Filament Guide

3DE Premium Filament is of good quality and can be bought for reasonable money! 3DE Premium Filament is available in PLA, ABS, ASA, but you will also find several special filaments in this particular brand, such as Ceramic, PP, PC, Nylon, TPU/FLEX, Wood, Carbon, PVA etc. See more in this filament guide, where you can find a description of them all.

In addition to 3DE Premium Filament and all the other brands of filament we sell, we have created this guide to make it easier for you as a user to find your way around the different types of filament. This guide will help you find exactly the material you need for your project or increase the quality of your prints.

During the selection of material, you can find pros and cons, description of the material, hardware recommendations as well as tips and tricks.

 

PLA

General information about the material PLA

PLA is a material that is easy to print with for most users, as it is easy to use, does not cost that much and it has dimensional accuracy. Polylactic Acid, which is known as PLA, is one of the most popular materials to print in. It can be printed at a low temperature and a heated bed is not necessary. It is also one of the most environmentally friendly filaments on the market today as it is derived from crops such as corn and sugar cane. PLA is recyclable and most importantly biodegradable. As a bonus, this also allows the plastic to give off a sweet scent while printing.

PLA flows a little better than, for example, ABS, which roughly means that it has advantages when printing items with a high degree of detail and high speed - this is general for PLA and there can of course be differences from machine to machine - from software to software. PLA is known for being good at making sharp corners and is particularly known for not warping to the same degree as seen with ABS. Therefore, it is not necessary to print it on a heated bed, but can instead be printed on most substrates - glass sheets - SpiderSheet - masking tape - kapton - PEI SpiderSheet etc. - can be bought here! Many people use glue sticks, hairspray, wood glue, vinegar and many other fun things, get to increase adhesion - at 3D Eksperten we only use SpiderSheets wiped lightly in IPA - to protect against greasy fingers, filament residues or dust on the build plate.

When you print with PLA, you will quickly find out that it has a relatively high gloss on the surface, compared to ABS - the amount of gloss depends on the content (color) and partly on the print temperature you use for the filament. Advanced users will often be able to vary its gloss by adjusting its print temperature.

PLA is not soluble in acetone, like for example ABS. PLA, on the other hand, can be dissolved in Sodium Hydroxide (dish-washing tablet). These are very tough cases and not something you should get your hands on unless you know exactly what you are dealing with - So a "Don't do this at home" sign on this method. In contrast, our 3D Premium Filament is available in countless colours. Everything from regular basic colors such as black, white, gray to orange, various shades of green and blue, but also available in silky colours, crystal (with crystals in), transparent, uv change, temperature changing or e.g. Ceramic Filament - which can be smoothed with household alcohol.

There are many possibilities to make a print look exciting and beautiful. Most of the colors can be found in both 1.75mm and 2.85mm, with 1kg of filament on the spool. See our selection here!

PLA has a melting temperature (glass transition) of around 60 degrees C. and deforms above these degrees. This means that PLA is not suitable for items that must be exposed to, for example, sunlight, hot cars or the like, and is in its structure a "brittle" material and therefore not recommendable for many mechanical parts that must have a long durability. So, PLA is easier to print with for the normal user compared to ABS and one can conclude from this that PLA is more suitable as a "standard" material for the normal consumer of 3d printing.

Hardware Recommendations

To get the best result with printing in PLA, you must ensure the following:

• Pray

• Temperature: approx. 60 °C

• You don't need a heated bed

• No need to use enclosure

• Build Surface

• SpiderSheet - can be bought here!

• Masking tape

• PEI SpiderSheet - can be purchased here!

• Glass plate - can be bought here!

• Glue - can be bought here!

• Extruder

• Temperature: 190-220 °C

• No special hot end

• Fan

• Cooling

• Fan Speed: 100%

Tips and tricks

Tweak your 'Retractions' Settings to reduce Oozing

One of the most common problems when printing with PLA is oozing. Since the filament is relatively easy to print with compared to other materials, it tends to continue to flow during the travel motions at the end of a segment. This creates strands of hair on your subject and the best way to make it better is to change your retraction settings. Depending on the brand of PLA and printer you have, the settings will be different. Here you are forced to try your hand.

Optimize your Fan Settings

Cooling is one of the most important aspects when printing with PLA. Having cooling on your subject makes a very big difference in the quality of your print. The freshly extruded plastic must be cooled below the melting temperature/glass transition as quickly as possible. This avoids the plastic stringing or other things that you don't want. We recommend that the settings on the fan throughout the print are set to high. Except for the first 1-2 layers, where you want to create a good adhesion to the platform.

Choose the right Extruder Temperature

This is the good tip for any filament, but especially PLA, which often contains combinations of other additives, depending on the manufacturer. These additives can lead to variations when printing between 190-230 degrees C. If you do not print with the right temperatures, you can risk several different print problems. PLA can be combined with different materials, such as metal, wood or fibres, it gives a different character to the ordinary PLA. These types may need different settings and perhaps different hardware settings. Always check with your dealer at which temperature your materials must be printed.

If you have problems with stringing, try reducing your temperature by 5-10 degrees C., which can also remedy oozing. If you struggle during extrusion, try increasing the temperature by 10 degrees C so that the material flows out more easily through the die.

ABS

 

General information about ABS

ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) has been used for many years in the 3d printer world. This material was one of the first types of plastic used in the industry with a 3d printer. Many years later, it is still a very popular material, as it does not cost much and has good mechanical advantages. ABS is known for its toughness and impact resistance, which allows you to print durable parts that will withstand extra use and wear. LEGO bricks are made of this very material, for the same reason. ABS also has a higher melting temperature/glass transition temperature of around 100 degrees C., which means it can withstand much higher temperatures before it starts to deform. This makes ABS a good choice for use outside or where it is exposed to high temperatures. However, one must be aware that parts printed in ABS tend to shrink, leading to dimensional inaccuracy.

 

When printing with ABS, make sure to do it in an open place with good ventilation, as the filament can have odors.

 

ABS is soluble in acetone and can be used to treat/finish the surface of your 3d printed ABS object. Acetone is easily available, but at the same time we would like to point out that this is not something that should be experimented with at home, as acetone is toxic and must be treated by people with experience.

When you 3d print, you will typically be able to see the layers that the machine has made to build up the object (layer-on-layer). These layers can be easily treated with e.g. sandpaper, after which you can smear/treat the workpiece with acetone, so that the layers on the workpiece will melt together - this will give a smooth surface as the many layers on the outside of the workpiece will melt together and thus remove the visibility of the many small layers. To make full use of your acetone treatment, you can make use of acetone steam. It can give an otherwise matte ABS printed item, a high gloss and thus an often nice finish - however, you must also remember that it will be able to remove small details, as a melting of the surface of the item takes place.

3DE Premium ABS is available in both 1.75mm and 2.85mm in several different colors and with 1kg filament on the spool. See more here!

 

Hardware Recommendations regarding ABS

To get the best result with printing in ABS, you must ensure the following:

 

• Pray

• Temperature: 95-110 °C

• Heated Bed is recommended

• Enclosure/Cabinet is recommended

 

• The surface of the building board

• SpiderSheet - can be bought here!

• ABS Slurry (You can make this mix by putting small pieces of ABS filament in acetone and smearing the mixture on the platform NB: can not be used on e.g. SpiderSheet as the surface here will be destroyed)

• Polymide tape - can be bought here!

 

• Extruder

• Temperature: 230-260 °C

 

• Fan

• It is recommended to avoid subject blowing when printing with ABS.

 

Tips and tricks

Check Warping

One of the most frequent problems you can encounter when printing with ABS is warping. This means that the workpiece leaves the plate and the workpiece becomes crooked where it has been released. Temperature changes from the extrusion temperature down to room temperature can cause the plastic to shrink and contract. This can typically happen during the first layers.

You can minimize the risk of this by having a heated bed of up to 110º C. The platform will conduct the heat up into the first layers, which will prevent it from shrinking and separating from the substrate. It is also normal to set the extruder temperature 10-20 degrees higher for the first layers of your print, which can also counteract the risk of it shrinking and separating from the substrate. If you print large items that are further away from the platform, the same problem can occur. Here, it is important to get an enclosure/cabinet on the printer, in order to maintain a high temperature around your print - in other words, you will be able to avoid many problems by creating the right print environment - counteracting drafts, raising the room temperature, which all together can affect your print quality.

Use 'Brims' and 'Rafts'

When printing large items or thin delicate items, you may still experience adhesion problems. In these cases, add a 'brim' or 'raft' to your print. This can be a good way to attach your item to the platform and thus also prevent warping. A 'brim' will add more rings of plastic around your subject on the first few layers, this creates extra surface area to hold the corners of your print. By using a 'raft' a plastic platform will be built under your print, which can be removed when the item is finished printing.

Print in a ventilated area

Odors can occur when printing with ABS, where the fumes can potentially be harmful if inhaled in large quantities. Place your printer in a ventilated area to avoid such situations. Some 3d printers contain separate air filters or HEPA filters that can capture these UFPs (ultrafine particles). So you have to consider where you set up/place your 3d printer to both take into account the print environment in the machine, but also at the same time consider where you place the machine in relation to working environment conditions.

Flexible Materials (TPE/TPU)

 

 

General information about Flexible Material

Flexible filaments, usually referred to as TPE or TPU. It is known for its elasticity, which allows items to be stretched and bent. It is made of Thermoplastic Elastomers (TPE) which is a material made of hard plastic and rubber. There are different types of TPE, with Thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) being the most commonly used in the 3d world. The degree of elasticity depends on the type of TPE and the chemical formula used from the manufacturer. Some filaments can become partially flexible like a tire, where others can be fully flexible like an elastic band. Known types of TPE/TPU are known from Ninjatek / Ninjaflex and are available in a large selection of colors and hardnesses - it costs a little, but the quality is top notch.

TIP: 3DE Premium Flex is a TPU with a shore value around A80 - it is very similar to the hardness of a leather belt. It is relatively easy to print with - precisely because of the hardness - and it can be used for e.g. bumpers/covers for mobile phones, tires for RC cars, vibration dampers or the like. It is normally run at 230-240C hotend and 60-80C bed.

 

If you are designing a flexible item that must fit onto another object, then you must try to create a negative tolerance between the two parts, so that the flexible part must be stretched over the other object.

 

Hardware Recommendations regarding The material Flex

To get the best results from printing in Flex, you must ensure the following:

• Pray

• Temperature: 60-80 °C

• Heated Bed or cold plate with SpiderSheet

• No need for an enclosure/cabinet

 

• The surface of the building board

• PEI SpiderSheet - can be bought here!

• SpiderSheet - can be bought here!

• Masking tape

 

• Extruder

• Temperature: 225-245 °C

• Direct Drive Extruder Recommended

 

• Fan

• Refrigeration recommended

 

Tips and tricks

Use the Direct Drive Extruder

While some flex materials partially work fine with Bowden Extruders, most flexible materials use direct drive extruders, which give the best results. The distance between the drive gear and the melting zone of the hot end must be as short as possible, so that the filament gets down into the nozzle as efficiently as possible. Additionally, where the filament travels must have tight tolerances to prevent errors. It is therefore typically easier to print with direct drive extruder vs Bowden extruder. Check with your manufacturer if you are in doubt about which extruder you have.

Use Slow and Steady Feed Rate

Flexible filaments print best at slow and constant feed rates. It is because of the elasticity of the material that it can be difficult to change the print speed. Too high a print speed can result in the filament being compressed and then ending up with a jam. Slow and steady is the best course of action. It will take some experimentation to find the right print speed. We have found that 1200 mm/min (20 mm/s) can be a good speed to start with for most materials.

Optimize feed rate by printing with low layer height, such as 0.1mm – 0.2mm. The lower the layer height, the less plastic, so it allows your extruder to use a low feed rate, it's easier on the filament.

Also try to avoid making 'raft' as raft has a higher extrusion rate which can cause problems.

 

Reduces the Resistance of the Filament Coil

Considerations of how your filament spool is positioned can have an important role in your print with flex. Typically, your extruder will pull the filament into the die by forcing the filament spool, which is mounted on your printer, to unroll a piece of the plastic. But precisely because flexible materials are elastic, it will stretch the filament as it is pulled in and can actually result in during extrusion. Try mounting the spool above the printer so that the filament rolls in a downward direction, which may just reduce the resistance. It can be extremely helpful to mount the coil on a bearing so that it spins as freely as possible.

Tune your Retraction Settings

Because flexible material is elastic, it is very sensitive to rapid movement. To get a good print, you need to optimize your retraction settings to reduce these movements. If you have just started printing in flex materials, we recommend that you switch off retraction completely. Once you have turned off your retraction, you can focus on finding the right speed and extrusion rates to make your print good.

Once you are more confident in the settings, you may want to add a bit of retraction speed to alleviate any oozing from your hot end.

 

PETG

 

General information about the material PETG

PET and PETG filaments are known for being easy to print with, the smooth surface and being water resistant. PETG is a Glycol Modified version of Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET), which is usually used in ex. water bottles. It is a semi-rigid material with good impact resistance, but a softer surface, which can give a more vulnerable surface in some applications.

The material also has good thermal benefits as it allows the plastic to cool effectively without causing warping. There are several variations of this material incl. PETG, PETE, and PETT.

The smooth surface is especially useful if you use a raft. Then the rafter and the workpiece are easy to separate, and the workpiece continues to have a nice surface.

Try turning your fan off for the first few layers of your print to avoid warping. This trick works really well for large prints.

We sell many different colors in 3DE Premium PETG, which can be found in both 1.75mm and 2.85mm, with 1kg filament on the spool - see more here!

Hardware Recommendations

To get the best result with printing in PETG, you must ensure the following:

 

• Pray

• Temperature: 70-80 °C

• Heated Bed - recommended, but can be used without it

• Enclosure/cabinet - not needed

 

• The surface of the building board

• SpiderSheet - can be bought here!

• Glue stick - can be bought here!

• Masking tape

 

• Extruder

• Temperature: 230-250 °C

• No special hotend is needed

 

• Fan

• Blower is recommended

 

Tips and tricks

Invest in a good building board

Some 3d printers come with a glass plate or something else on the build plate. Although these surfaces can be quite excellent for PETG, we recommend using a heated build plate with a SpiderSheet, - available for purchase here , as it will produce the best results. This can ensure good adhesion.

Change your Retraction Settings

One of the common problems that can be experienced when printing with PETG can be stringing. These are small plastic threads, similar to hair, that are on the surface of your print. To avoid these, you must go in and try your hand by changing your retraction settings.

ASA

General information about the material ASA

ASA is a common alternative to ABS and it is very good for outdoor use due to its high UV, temperature and wear tolerance.

When should you choose ASA over ABS?

ABS is one of the well-known material types, which you also know from e.g. LEGO bricks. It is often used by more experienced FDM print experts - it places greater demands on both equipment, settings and, not least, preparation before printing. ABS has a higher melting point than, for example, the well-known PLA material - in addition to a long life, an incredible toughness and flexibility, which makes it very useful for the use of mechanical parts, spare parts of various types, etc. (not because PLA cannot be used for this, but there is a difference). ABS is good - but it's certainly not flawless or easy to use in all conditions.

Outdoor use of ABS is not optimal. ABS fades over time due to UV radiation and gives your items a yellowish tinge - this is often seen on older parts that have been sitting outside for a long time in wind and weather - unfortunately it does not last forever. That is why we recommend ASA.

 

ASA is a relatively new material within 3d printing - people have known about the material since the 1970s, but it is only now that we have really seen a demand for ASA, rather than ABS.

ASA (Acrylonitrile Styrene Acrylate) has phenomenal strength, looks incredibly good in print and is easy to work with. It gives a stronger print than ABS, it gives a smoother surface, it can be steamed/finished with acetone, it is incredibly chemical resistant and not least durable in all wind and weather conditions and resistant to UV - it does not fade over time, but on the other hand, it keeps its color and strength. ASA is the material that, compared to all others, fades the least over time in UV (outdoor use).

 

So we can see that ABS and ASA are incredibly similar to each other - ASA just wins on mechanical advantages regarding strength, color fastness, UV resistance, durability against wind and weather and not least chemical resistance. So what does ASA lose by? Price... ASA costs more as a raw material and thus also more for a coil that can be 3d printed.

 

3DE Premium ASA+ is available in both 1.75mm and 2.85mm, in the colors black, gray and white, with 1 kg of filament on the spool. See more here!

Hardware Recommendations

To get the best results from printing in ASA, you must ensure the following:

 

• Pray

• Temperature: 90-120 °C

• Heated bed is necessary

• Enclosure/cabinet not necessary

 

• The surface of the building board

• SpiderSheet - can be bought here!

• PEI SpiderSheet - can be purchased here!

• Kapton tape - can be bought here!

• ABS/ASA Slurry

 

• Extruder

• Temperature: 220-265 °C

• A special hotend is not recommended

 

• Cooling

• Refrigeration is not recommended

 

Tips and tricks

Invest in a good building board

To get the ASA to stay on the build plate, we recommend using SpiderSheet - can be bought here!

You can also use clean glass or polymide tape with Acetone Juice applied. These solutions will prevent warping, which can be experienced when printing in ASA.

Adjust Temperature and Cooling Settings to prevent overheating

If you print at a high temperature, as required by ASA, overheating of certain parts in the printers can occur, which can reduce the quality of the print. We recommend that with the program you are printing in, you print with a higher extruder temperature the first five layers of ASA and then lower the temperature by 5 degrees C to increase adhesion and avoid overheating.

 

Use Slow Cooling on your Fans

When printing with ASA, it can be difficult to avoid overheating. As mentioned above, you can lower the temperature at some of the layers. Another option is to set your fan to run at the lowest speed. Around 10-25% is typically the best setting, so as not to create warping.

 

Nylon

General information about the material Nylon

Nylon is known for its toughness and flexibility. It is an ideal choice for durable parts. Nylon (aka Polyamide) is a popular material in the plastics industry. Nylon filament typically needs an extrusion temperature near 250 ºC, while some brands of Nylon allow printing as low as 220 ºC, depending on the chemical composition. Not all printers can print up to 250 ºC, so it can be good to know that there are different chemical compound nylons that require different temperatures, so that you don't necessarily have to upgrade your hot end.

 

A major challenge with nylon is that it absorbs moisture from its surroundings. If you print with nylon, which has absorbed moisture, you will experience poor quality of your print. Therefore, it is important how to store one's Nylon.

You can also use nylon to clean the filament out of your nozzle. It is a technique called 'cold pulling', where you let nylon bind to the dirt in your nozzle, and after it has cooled you pull the filament and thus the dirt out of your hot end.

 

3DE Premium can be found in both 1.75mm and 2.85mm in the colors black and white, with 1 kg on the spool - See more here!

 

Hardware Settings

To get the best result with printing in Nylon, you must ensure the following:

 

• Pray

• Temperature: 70-90 °C

• Heated Bed recommended

• Enclosure/cabinet recommended

 

• The surface of the building board

• SpiderSheet - can be bought here!

• PEI SpiderSheet - can be bought here!

• Glue - can be bought here!

 

• Extruder

• Temperature: 225-265 °C

• May require All-Metal hotend - can be purchased here!

 

• Cooling

• Refrigeration is not recommended

 

Tips and tricks

Filament Storage

One of the important aspects of nylon is being aware of how to store it. It must not be exposed to moisture, as nylon easily absorbs moisture from its surrounding environment. Printing with nylon that has been exposed to moisture can result in reduced print quality, such as a rough surface, small holes or bubbles on the surface. This can reduce the strength and performance of the printed parts. The solution to this problem is to remove the roll of filament from the printer when you have finished printing with it and store it in an airtight container or something, preferably with some silica bags. If you think it is difficult to remove the filament after use, there are poly-boxes that have been made just for the purpose. Find Polybox here .

 

Make use of Enclosure/Cabinet to Avoid Warping

Some of the types of nylon, which must use high temperatures during the print process, may be exposed to warping. This is due to the large temperature difference from the extruded filament to the surrounding environment. Heated bed can reduce warping a bit, but using a printer that has a heated chamber or enclosure/cabinet will be the optimal solution. Keeping the air temperature around 45ºC will help eliminate warping.

Use 'Brims' and 'Rafts'

In situations where adding a cabinet/enclosure may not be an ideal option, consider using a brim or rafter to help with first layer adhesion.

 

Carbon Fiber Filled PLA

General information about Filamentet Carbon

Carbon fiber materials contain small fibers of carbon together with another base material. 3DE Premium Carbon Filament is based on PLA. It is extruded with small fibers to improve the ability of the filament. Carbon also has a nice finish.

Our 3DE Premium Carbon is available in 1.75mm with 1kg on the spool and in 2.85mm with 3kg on the spool. - see more here!

 

Hardware Requirements

Carbon fiber filled filament has the same recommendation as the filament it is made with. 3DE Premium Carbon is PLA based.

 

• Pray

• Temperature: 45-60 °C

• Possibility of Heated Bed

• Enclosure/cabinet not necessary

 

• Building the Surface

• SpiderSheet - can be bought here!

• PEI SpiderSheet - can be purchased here!

• Glass plate - can be bought here!

• Glue stick - can be bought here!

• Masking tape

 

• Extruder

• Temperature: 200-230 °C

• Steel nozzle - can be bought here!

 

• Cooling

• Refrigeration recommended

 

Upgrade to Hardened Steel Nozzle

The carbon fibers can be abrasive to the nozzle. In many cases, carbon is actually harder than the brass nozzle most 3d printers use. You can then destroy the printer, it is therefore a good idea to upgrade to a hardened steel nozzle. These hot ends can withstand wear and tear from the fibers , but the steel nozzle is less thermally conductive than the brass nozzle, which can cause other problems regarding extrusion. You may have to set the temperature 30-40 degrees C. higher than normal, which eliminates the risk of clogging. By reducing cooling, it can also minimize problems with thermal conditions when using a steel nozzle - can be purchased here!

 

Adjust Retraction Settings to avoid Clogs

Since the filament is filled with small fibers that do not melt, there is a high risk of nozzle-clog - clogged nozzle. We recommend reducing your retraction distance or turning off retractions, as retractions can increase the chance of the fibers building up on the inside of the extruder unit.

You can also consider getting a nozzle with a larger diameter (0.5mm or more), as there will be less likelihood of a clog occurring, as the fibers have an easier time getting through the nozzle.

 

Reduce the Print Speed ​​for a consistent result

It can be an advantage to use a lower print speed when printing with carbon, as you expose your extruder to less stress and it has a higher chance of pushing any small clogs through the nozzle.

Try reducing your print speed by 25-50% to see what works best.

If a clog occurs after printing the first few layers, try making the layer height smaller. If the nozzle sits too close to the surface, it can create an increased back pressure during printing of the layers, so that the fibers of the filament build up inside and create a clog immediately.

 

If necessary, use a Bowden Tube/PTFE Tube

Carbon fiber filled filaments tend to be a bit more brittle than the base filament and can therefore easily break if it is forced through a small corner or rubs against a sharp corner of the printer's frame. Make sure that the filament is strategically placed, where the filament can come freely and without obstacles from spool to nozzle, consisting of a soft curve. You can also use a bowden tube/PTFE Tube to remedy the problem - can be bought here!

 

Polycarbonate (PC)

 

General information about the material PC

Polycarbonate is known for its strength and durability. It is highly resistant to heat and provides an impact resistance that is unique, making it ideal for harsh environments and industrial units. It has a glass transition temperature of 150 degrees C., which means that the material can withstand very high temperatures and makes it usable for high-temperature devices. It can also be bent without breaking and is often used in devices where less flexibility is required. Most Polycarbonate filaments available on the market contain additives that allow the filament to be printed at lower temperatures. Check with your dealer which temperatures are recommended for the particular roll of PC you are printing with.

Polycarbonate is extremely susceptible to moisture from its surroundings, which can affect its performance and strength. It must be stored airtight after opening. If it gets damp, you can try printing at 280 degrees C. or below, which might counteract artefacts or bubbles in the print from the moisture content.

It is recommended that you print at high temperatures and you will find that the layers come off if you print at temperatures that are too low or if cooling is switched on. In addition, it is recommended to print with Polycarbonate on a machine that has an enclosure/cabinet and is able to handle high temperatures on the hotplate and extruder.

3DE Premium PC, available in both 1.75mm and 2.85mm with 1kg on the spool. It is available in the colors black, white and transparent - see more here!

 

Hardware Recommendations

To get the best result with printing on a PC, you must ensure the following:

 

• Pray

• Temperature: 80-120 °C

• Heated Bed Recommended

• Enclosure Recommended

 

• Build Surface

• PEI SpiderSheet is recommended - can be purchased here!

• Glue stick - can be bought here!

• SpiderSheet - can be bought here!

 

• Extruder

• Temperature: 260-310 °C

• Requires All-metal hotend - can be purchased here!

 

• Cooling

• No need for refrigeration

 

Tips and tricks

Use a Good Build Surface

PEI is the best build surface when it comes to printing with Polycarbonate. Standard building surfaces, such as blue tape and glue stick, can lose their effect when printing with the high temperatures required when printing with a PC. SpiderSheet can be used, but you may find that the material PC and SpiderSheet stick together too well at temperatures higher than 80°C and PC can sometimes warp so aggressively that the SpiderSheet falls off the build plate. PEI SpiderSheet, on the other hand, lasts up to 110°C, without making a permanent adhesion. Only when the building board has cooled down does the item tend to loosen itself and otherwise it can easily be removed with a removal tool, such as a putty knife or something else. Can be purchased here!

 

Adjust Settings to Counter Stringing and Oozing

Due to the extreme high print temperatures and low cooling, there is a risk of stringing and oozing with this material. To avoid this, try to increase retraction and retraction speed.

 

Custom Settings for your first Layers

Due to the high tendency for the material PC to warp, the first layer is extremely important. PC seems to stick better to the blank with slow thick extrusion layers, ex. 100-150% in the first layer and in addition 110-130% layer width, . After that, it is a good idea to set your first layers to print about 30 degrees C. higher than the rest of the print, as this can give good adhesion.

 

Smooth Top Layer

High print temperatures cause extruded filament to tend to fall down if not supported. Solid Infill Layers should be printed slowly, such as 50% speed, so they have the best chance of bridging the infill layers.

At least 4 top layers must be used to ensure that the top layers are as smooth as possible. The percentage of infill should ideally be kept higher than 25% dense, to ensure support in the top layers. If you need a small amount of infill, so that the subject is lighter or otherwise, you can use an extra top layer to increase the probability of a solid top layer.

 

Calibrate your Bridge Settings

As above, printing at high temperatures can also affect bridging. As the plastic is extruded between each side of the bridge, it may tend to fall during cooling. You must ensure that your bridging fan is set to a low value, otherwise there will be a tendency of warping etc. due to temperature changes.

If parts overheat, curl or show signs of falling off when printing sharp overhangs, consider setting the fan speed down to 0% on the first run, but increase the fan speed to 40% or just below, after about 4-5 layers.

 

Polypropylene (PP)

 

General information about the material Polypropylene (PP)

Polypropylene is a semi-rigid and lightweight material that is most commonly used for storage and packaging. The semi-crystallizing structure of the material means that it has a high tendency to warp during cooling and can make it difficult to print with. Polypropylene is tough and has good fatigue resistance, which makes it ideal for low-strength applications such as hinges, straps, cords etc.

3DE Premium PP is available in both 1.75mm and 2.85mm, in the colors black and white with 1kg filament on the spool - see more here!

Hardware Recommendations

To get the best result with printing in PP, you must ensure the following:

 

• Pray

• Temperature: 85-100 °C

• Heated Bed required

• Enclosure/cabinet recommended

• You can advantageously print on packaging tape (50mm) which is often made of PP. It is available in a transparent and brown type and can be bought in most shops today.

 

• Building Surface

• Packing tape (see above)

• Polypropylene Sheet (same as above in principle

 

• Extruder

• Temperature: 220-250 °C

• No special hot end is needed

 

• Cooling

• Requires refrigeration

 

Choose the right Build Surface

It can be difficult to find the right building surface for PP. It has difficulty adhering to the build plate, even when heated. However, polypropylene adheres well to itself, and luckily packing tape is an easily available surface which is also based on PP. Thick strips of packing tape and a heated build plate can improve your success of your first layers of PP. Some packing tapes melt at 90 degrees C., so be sure to keep the heated build plate below the melting point of the tape.

 

Use 'Rafts'

Polypropylene prints can bond so well to packing tape on the build plate that it can be difficult to separate it once the print is finished. This happens because the high temperature from the heated building plate causes the tape to melt together a little. To avoid this, consider making a rafter on your print. Once the print is complete, the rafter can be removed and it doesn't matter if it is fused with packing tape.

 

Use a cabinet

It is not certain that it is enough to have a good building board surface to avoid problems with your subject. To avoid warping, it is a good idea to get a case for the printer to keep the heat. If you use a printer with a heated chamber, it will help eliminate warping. 45-60 degrees C, will often be recommended. If you have a standard enclosure/cabinet, it can also make a significant difference, as the heat from the heated build plate maintains the temperature.

Although PP can print well at lower temperatures, it is a good idea to keep a temperature of around 240 degrees C., as it can help with better adhesion between the layers and thus strengthen the item.

 

Wood Filled Filament

 

General information about the material Wood Filled Filament

Wood filaments are combined with a PLA as a base, added cork, pieces of wood or the like, which gives a wooden look and feel. When you print with wood, you can even smell the wood. 3DE Premium Wood contains 5-8% wood. It does not wear out the nozzle in the same way as carbon filament can, as the wood fibers are much softer. In addition to that, there is the option of finishing your item with standard sandpaper intended for wood, this can refine and make your surface finer.

3DE Premium is available in both light and dark wood in 1.75mm, with 1kg filament on the coils. See more here!

Hardware Recommendations

To get the best result with printing in Wood, you must ensure the following:

• Pray

• Temperature: 45-60 °C

• Heated Bed is an option

• Enclosure/ cabinet is not needed

 

• Building Surface

• SpiderSheet - can be bought here!

• Glue stick - can be bought here!

• Glass plate - can be bought here!

• PEI SpiderSheet - can be bought here!

• Masking tape

 

• Extruder

• Temperature: 190-220 °C

• No special hot end required

 

• Cooling

• Requires refrigeration

Use Larger Nozzle Sizes

Due to the wood fibers added to the filament, a standard 0.4mm nozzle can be challenging. The particles tend to clump close to the die opening, causing inconsistent extrusion or possible clogging. 3DE Premium is incredibly fine-grained and this means that you will rarely or never experience nozzle stoppage. If you still experience repeated nozzle tops, we recommend that you use a 0.5mm or larger nozzle to reduce the chance of clogging - can be purchased here! It may also be recommended to regularly clean your nozzle to remove any clumps of material inside your nozzle.

 

Minimize Stringing and Oozing

The wood fibers in the material can make it difficult to maintain proper suction in the nozzle when it moves between two areas. This can lead to oozing or stringing during the print process. If you use Simplify3D, a function is included to remedy just this. Go to Advanced tab under your process settings, there you can activate "avoid crossing outline for travel movements". With this option enabled, the software will try to move as much as possible within the model itself. So instead of moving in straight lines from A to B, it will choose an alternate route that keeps the extruder over the workpiece to avoid stinging and coasting. This can often reduce the external movements by over 50% and can greatly improve the quality of your subject.

PVA

 

 

General information about the material PVA

PVA is best known for being able to dissolve in water and for being used as a support material for complex print items. PVA, also called Polyvinyl Alcohol, is soft and is made of biodegradable polymer, which is very sensitive to moisture! When PVA is exposed to water, it will dissolve, making it a great support material. Since after finishing the print, you can put the entire item in a bowl of water, after which the PVA will dissolve. You can therefore print extremely complex shapes or items with partially closed cavities, where standard support material would have presented a challenge. PVA can also be used as a model material if you need a rapid prototype.

3DE Premium PVA is available in both 1.75mm and 2.85mm with 1kg filament on the spool - see more here!

Hardware Recommendations

• Pray

• Temperature: 45-60 °C

• Heated Bed is an option

• Does not require an enclosure/cabinet

 

• Building Surface

• SpiderSheet - can be bought here!

• PEI SpiderSheet - can be bought here!

• Masking tape

 

• Extruder

• Temperature: 185-200 °C

• No special hot end is required

 

• Cooling

• Refrigeration required

 

Pay attention to the storage of your PVA

PVA dissolves in water, so it is important that it is stored airtight. PVA absorbs moisture from its surroundings and can therefore bubble and split during printing, which will destroy the quality and strength of the final part. When you are done with your print, be sure to remove the spool of PVA and place it in an airtight container. You can possibly put it in the resealable bag it was received in, together with the silica bags.

If your material has absorbed too much moisture, the material can be dried using a commercial dehydrator or an oven set to the lowest possible temperature for a few hours. It will draw out the moisture without melting it.

We can clearly recommend a Polybox, where you can store your PVA and where the filament can also stand during the actual print process. Then you are free from worries about moisture in your PVA - see more here!

 

Use Dense Support Layers

PVA can be expensive! If you have Simplify3D, you can use the Dense Supports function, which allows you to only use the PVA material for the interfaces between your subject and the support. This can save you 90% or more of PVA material.

Ceramic

 

 

General information about the material Ceramic

Our 3DE Premium Ceramic is a very exciting material which has very similar settings to PLA and is therefore easy to print with. It is a material that is wax-like and developed to have good finishing options. With this material, it is possible to remove the visible layers that may be present with FDM printing. It simply needs to be post-treated with alcohol, such as in isopropyl or ethanol.

Hardware Settings

• Pray

• Temperature: 70 °C

• Heated bed

• Does not require an enclosure/cabinet

• Building Surface

• SpiderSheet - can be bought here!

• PEI SpiderSheet - can be bought here!

• Masking tape

 

• Extruder

• Temperature: 190-220 °C

• No special hot end is required

 

• Cooling

• Refrigeration required

  

Susceptible to moisture

Ceramic is susceptible to moisture from its surroundings, which can affect its quality. It must be stored airtight after opening.

 

Finishing Options

You can finish the item with an atomizer with isopropyl or ethanol. You can also dip your item in a bowl/bucket with sopropyl or ethanol for a short time, depending on how big the item is. Try yourself out.

However, a box has also been developed for this purpose. Simply insert your item into the Polysher where it will be exposed to tiny particles of alcohol. It must be allowed to dry after a finishing treatment. You can buy a nice Polisher here for perfect/uniform finishing.